Lankeswari Temple: Sonepur’s Scenic Island Shrine on the Mahanadi River

The Legend and History of Lankeswari Temple,Sonepur

Maa Lankeswari Temple, located on a serene island in the middle of the Mahanadi River at Sonepur, Odisha, is one of the most revered shrines of Western Odisha. Popularly known as Paschima Lanka, the temple is dedicated to Maa Lankeswari, worshipped as the divine guardian of the region. Surrounded by flowing river waters and natural charm, the temple attracts devotees and tourists alike. With its rich legends, cultural festivals, and peaceful setting, it offers both a spiritual experience and scenic beauty.

Paschima Lanka and the Echoes of the Ramayana

Centuries ago, the region of Sonepur was known as Paschima Lanka, or Western Lanka. The presiding deity of this kingdom was Goddess Lankeswari, also identified as Nikumbhilaa, the protectress of the mythical city of Lanka ruled by Ravana. This ancient name has fostered a unique and powerful local tradition that offers a fascinating counter-narrative to the widely known Ramayana epic.   

This distinct cultural identity is most vividly expressed during the ‘Lanka Podi‘ or ‘Lanka Dahana’ festival. Celebrated on Purna Amas, forty days before Dussehra, this ritual involves the burning of a terracotta effigy of Lord Hanuman. The effigy is then crushed and its ashes are thrown into the river, a symbolic act representing Ravana’s antipathy towards the monkey god who set his kingdom ablaze.   

This tradition is a profound statement of regional identity. The people of Paschima Lanka, through this annual reenactment, align themselves with the perspective of Lanka, where Hanuman was an agent of destruction. The Lankeswari Temple Sonepur thus stands as a silent custodian of this alternative interpretation of the epic, making it a place of immense cultural and historical significance.

An Ancient Seat of Power: From Tantra Peeth to Tutelary Deity

The spiritual roots of the Lankeswari Temple run deep into the annals of history. As early as the 7th and 8th centuries AD, the site was revered as a Tantra Peeth, a center for esoteric tantric practices, highlighting its long-standing spiritual importance. Over the centuries, Goddess Lankeswari served as the tutelary deity for powerful dynasties that ruled the region, including the Chhindakanagas, Gangas, and Nagas.   

While empires rose and fell, the goddess’s patronage underwent a remarkable transformation. Today, Maa Lankeswari is primarily worshipped by the Kaivarta (fisherman) community of Sonepur. For these devotees, whose lives and livelihoods are inextricably linked to the Mahanadi, the goddess is not a distant royal deity but a divine mother who presides over their source of sustenance. This shift from an elite, dynastic faith to a vibrant folk tradition demonstrates a beautiful democratization of belief, grounding the temple’s power in the daily lives of its people.   

The Divine Atmosphere: Architecture and Surroundings

The experience of visiting the Lankeswari Temple Sonepur is as unique as its history. The temple’s architecture and its dramatic natural setting combine to create an atmosphere of profound serenity and awe, where the divine feels palpably close.

A Temple Born from the River

The temple’s most striking feature is its location on a flat rocky islet in the middle of the Mahanadi’s expansive riverbed. Originally, the deity was worshipped in a simple, humble niche carved into the rock itself. This primordial form of worship speaks to the sanctity of the location, a place deemed sacred long before any grand structure was conceived.   

The architecture of the temple is a testament to the community’s resilience and devotion in the face of nature’s power. To protect the shrine from the fierce monsoon floods that partially submerge the islet each year, a modern, high-raised, pillared structure has been constructed on the very same rock. This adaptive design ensures that worship can continue, a symbol of faith standing firm against the river’s might.   

Adding another layer to its sacred history, the original Lankeswari Rock bears a Buddhist symbol carved in bas-relief. This suggests that the site’s spiritual magnetism predates its current Hindu identity, having been a focal point for seekers of different faiths for centuries. The temple is not just built on a rock; it is the latest chapter in the long, sacred story of this riverine stone.   

The Sacred Journey and Lankeswari Darha

Reaching the Lankeswari Temple Sonepur is a pilgrimage in itself. The shrine is accessible only by boat, a short but meaningful journey that separates the temporal world of the riverbank from the spiritual realm of the island sanctuary. As the boatman navigates the gentle currents, the panoramic view of the vast river, the distant hills, and the approaching temple creates a sense of profound peace and anticipation. 

Near the temple, the river’s calm surface is broken by a deep and powerful whirlpool known as the ‘Lankeswari Darha‘. This natural phenomenon is seen by devotees as a direct manifestation of the goddess’s raw, untamed energy and her dominion over the formidable Mahanadi. The journey across the water, with the sacred whirlpool nearby, serves as a powerful prelude to the divine encounter, instilling a sense of reverence long before one steps onto the holy islet.  

Darshan and Rituals at Lankeswari Temple, Sonepur

The temple is a vibrant center of worship, with a calendar of daily rituals and grand annual festivals that draw devotees from across the region. A visit here offers a chance to witness living traditions that have been passed down through generations.

Temple Timings and Daily Worship

The temple is open for devotees every day. While some sources indicate it is open 24 hours, likely referring to the constant visibility of the island shrine, the official timings for darshan and priestly services are from 6:00 AM to 5:30 PM. It is advisable for visitors to plan their trip within this window to experience the temple’s rituals fully.   

The deep connection between the goddess and the local community is evident in the daily worship performed by the boatmen of Sonepur. For them, a prayer to Maa Lankeswari is an integral part of their daily work, a heartfelt appeal for protection and a bountiful catch. This continuous, living worship makes the temple a dynamic spiritual hub, not just a historical monument.   

Annual Festivals and Celebrations

The Lankeswari Temple Sonepur comes alive with special fervor during its annual festivals, which blend pan-Hindu traditions with unique local customs.

• Dussehra: A special 11-day ceremony is held from Mahalaya to Vijayadashami. During this period, thousands of devotees gather to witness the spectacular nightly arati (ritual of light), filling the riverine air with chants and devotion.   
• Chaitra Purnima and Kartika Purnima: These full moon days are considered highly auspicious and are celebrated with special pujas, attracting large crowds of pilgrims to the temple.   
• Chaiti Jatra: This unique festival, celebrated every alternate year, is a beautiful expression of the community’s bond with the goddess. Two devotees, believed to be embodying the divine spirit of Lankeswari, are carried in grand boat processions through Sonepur town, bringing the goddess’s blessings from her island abode directly to the people.   

Nuakhai: Celebrating the Harvest in Western Odisha

Nuakhai, meaning “new food,” is the most important agrarian festival in Western Odisha and is celebrated with immense joy in the Sonepur region. Observed on the day after Ganesh Chaturthi, it marks the welcoming of the new rice harvest. The heart of the festival is the ritual of offering the first grains, known as ‘Nabanna‘, to the presiding deity of the region at an auspicious time, or  lagan.   

As a principal deity of Sonepur, Goddess Lankeswari is a vital recipient of this first offering. The farmers and the fishing community alike present the ‘Nabanna’ to her as a token of gratitude for the bounty of the land and the river. This ritual beautifully unites the entire ecosystem under the goddess’s grace, acknowledging her as the ultimate sustainer of life.

Voices of the Devotees: Pilgrim and Visitor Experiences

The true essence of a sacred place is often found in the stories and feelings of those who visit it. While every pilgrim’s journey is personal, the experiences at Lankeswari Temple Sonepur share common threads of peace, awe, and a deep sense of connection.

A First-Timer’s Journey to the River Shrine

For a first-time visitor, the journey begins with a sense of wonder. You might first catch a glimpse of the temple from the main road, a distant white structure shimmering in the heart of the river. Arriving at the ghat, you hire a small wooden boat, and as it pushes off from the bank, the sounds of the town fade away, replaced by the gentle lapping of water and the call of river birds.   

The ride across the Mahanadi is a meditative experience. The vast expanse of water, the clear sky above, and the steady rhythm of the oars create a tranquil atmosphere. As the boat draws closer, the temple’s form becomes clearer, standing proudly on its rocky base. Stepping onto the islet feels like entering another world—a quiet, sacred space where the river’s timeless flow and the goddess’s eternal presence merge into one.

The Fisherman’s Faith: A Lifelong Bond

For a fisherman from the Kaivarta community, Maa Lankeswari is not just a deity; she is a constant companion. His day begins and ends with a prayer to her, his eyes turned towards her island home. Before casting his net, he seeks her blessing for a good catch and a safe return. He has grown up hearing stories of her power, of her benevolence in filling their nets with fish, and of her formidable nature during the monsoon when the river swells.   

He holds a deep, reverential fear for the ‘Lankeswari Darha’, the powerful whirlpool that he believes is the center of her energy. For him and his community, the temple is the anchor of their existence. The goddess is their protector, their provider, and the silent witness to their lives, which unfold on the sacred waters she commands.   

A Complete Traveler’s Guide to Lankeswari Temple, Sonepur

Planning a trip to this unique shrine is a rewarding experience. Here is all the practical information you need to make your journey smooth and fulfilling.

How to Reach Lankeswari Temple

The temple is located in the Mahanadi River near Sonepur town in the Subarnapur district of Odisha.

Best Time to Visit

While the temple is accessible throughout the year, the best time to visit is during the winter and post-monsoon months, from October to March. During this period, the weather is pleasant, and the river is calm, making the boat journey safe and enjoyable. The summer months can be extremely hot, with temperatures reaching up to 47°C. The monsoon season (July to September) should be avoided, as the temple is often partially submerged by floodwaters.   

Travel Tips for a Smooth Pilgrimage

• Accommodation: Sonepur town offers several comfortable lodging options, including Jatrinivas Subarnapur, Hotel Kasturi, Hotel Progress Inn, and Prabhas Lodge.   
• What to Carry: Wear light cotton clothes suitable for a warm climate. Carry sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. It’s also wise to have some cash on hand for the boat ride, offerings, and local purchases.
• Temple Etiquette: Dress modestly when visiting the temple. Photography may be restricted in certain areas, so it’s best to ask for permission. Be prepared for a short walk and a few steps at the shrine.

Savoring Sonepur: Local Food and Handicrafts

A trip to Sonepur is incomplete without experiencing its rich culture through its food and crafts.

• Local Food: Indulge in authentic Western Odisha cuisine. Be sure to try Chaula Bara, a crispy snack made from rice. Other must-try dishes include    

  Pakhala Bhata (fermented rice), Dalma (lentils with vegetables), and delicious sweets like Chhena Poda. The local markets also offer popular street food like Gupchup (pani puri).   
• Handicrafts: The Subarnapur district is a hub for traditional Odia handicrafts. It is particularly famous for its exquisite Bomkai silk sarees, also known as Sonepuri sarees. You can also find beautiful terracotta items, brass metalwork, and stone carvings in the local markets.   

Exploring Beyond the River Shrine: Nearby Attractions

Sonepur, often called the “Second Varanasi of India,” is dotted with ancient temples and is close to stunning natural landscapes, making it an ideal base for further exploration.   

The Temple Town of Sonepur: A Spiritual Circuit

Create your own pilgrimage circuit by visiting these significant shrines within and around Sonepur:

• Rameswar Temple: Situated at the sacred confluence (Triveni Sangam) of the Mahanadi and Tel rivers, this 18th-century Shiva temple is believed to have a lingam installed by Lord Rama himself. It is also an important site for ancestral rites (pinda dana).   
• Subarnameru Temple: This famous Shiva temple on the banks of the Tel River is central to the town’s identity. A local legend tells of a rain of gold coins that occurred here after a devotee’s prayer, giving the town its name Sonepur or Subarnapur (“Golden City”). This temple is often locally referred to as the Somnath Temple of Sonepur.   
• Kosaleswar Temple: Located in the nearby village of Baidyanath, this ancient brick temple is a marvel of 8th-century Kalinga architecture. It is particularly noted for its unique and intricate Kirtimukha (a mythical lion-faced creature) carvings, which show artistic links to the temples of Sirpur in Chhattisgarh.   
• Sureswari Temple: An ancient and powerful Shakti shrine, the Sureswari Temple is another important center of mother goddess worship in Sonepur, deeply connected to tantric traditions.   

Into the Wild: Satkosia Tiger Reserve

For those who wish to combine their spiritual journey with an adventure in nature, the Satkosia Tiger Reserve is a must-visit destination. Here, the Mahanadi River carves a breathtaking 22-kilometer-long gorge through the Eastern Ghats, creating a stunning landscape of dense forests and dramatic cliffs.   

The reserve is a vital habitat for a diverse range of wildlife, including large herds of elephants, leopards, sambar deer, and the critically endangered gharial and mugger crocodiles that thrive in the river. While tigers are not currently present, the sanctuary’s pristine beauty, opportunities for boating in the gorge, and serene nature camps make it an unforgettable ecotourism experience. A trip to Satkosia offers a chance to witness the wild, untamed side of the same Mahanadi River that nurtures the faith at Lankeswari Temple.   

Conclusion: The Enduring Spiritual Charm of Lankeswari

The Lankeswari Temple Sonepur is more than just a destination; it is a profound experience. It is a place where mythology breathes in living traditions, where history is etched in stone and water, and where faith stands resilient against the currents of time. Its unique location on a river island, its deep connection to a localized Ramayana narrative, and its role as the spiritual heart of a vibrant community make it a truly special place.

To visit Lankeswari is to embark on a journey that transcends mere sightseeing. It is to sail across sacred waters, to touch a stone that has been worshipped for centuries, and to feel the powerful pulse of a faith that is as enduring as the river itself. For any traveler seeking to explore the hidden spiritual treasures of India, a pilgrimage to this divine island shrine is an absolute must.